Yamazaki & Hakushu - Distiller's Reserve - 43%
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| Only one is named after a sneeze |
Japan exhibits a fascinating attitude towards craft. From the majestic swords forged during the much-lauded koto period through to the ultra-reliable automobiles of today, the Japanese ethos has been one of 'try, try and try again until we get it right....and then keep trying until we're better than anyone else'. Truly an awe-inspiring civilisation. Admittedly this is also the country that brought us tentacle porn and those vending machines that sell soiled schoolgirl panties so, you know, swings and roundabouts.
At the forefront of the craft of Japanese whisky you'll find Suntory. There have been a number of quite excellent releases spilling forth from both the Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries, collecting a whole host of gongs at various award shows across the globe. For example, if you can source a sample of the highly-praised Yamazaki 18, I'd strongly urge you to do so. "Sample?", I hear you cry. "Surely Johnnie, if it's that good, why not buy a bottle?".
Yeah, you got me. This is where, historically at least, I've had a problem. I've always found Yamazaki and Hakushu to be a little on the costly side when compared to their Celtic cousins. The previously mentioned 18 year old Yamazaki will set you back in excess of £140 at one well known online store and I've not seen it much cheaper for some time now. Something of a conundrum then. If only Suntory would follow in the footsteps of Nikka and release some accessible, reasonably priced fare.... and you know what? They've only gone and done just that.
Yamazaki Distiller's Reserve - 43%
Nose:
Big sherry and a surprising maturity, given the lack of an age statement. There's older whisky in here. Strawberries and other red fruits. A certain red wine note with a little prickle of spice.
Palate:
Echoes the nose. Lively with elements of maturity but there's a fair amount of youthful character. Strawberries with flashes of black cherry, definite winey note and winter spices humming along underneath.
Finish:
Sweet and spicy. Mildly drying oak and what I'd label a classic sherry profile.Medium in length and satisfying.
Thoughts:
This is an extremely competent malt. In truth, it leans towards the youthful side of balanced but it's none the worse for it. The wine cask influence keeps things playful and there's enough spice to beef up the whole experience.
Grade: B
Hakushu Distiller's Reserve - 43%
Nose:
The nose kicks off with apples, unripened melon and pears. Fruity but crisp and dry. If the Yamazaki is summer this is definitely spring. There's the slightest hint of bonfire smoke and a vegetal quality that is far from unpleasant.
Palate:
A lot smokier than the nose would suggest. Starts off sweet and a little on the tart side with a light peatiness running alongside. This is a little more austere than its brother and every so often, there's an unapologetic eau-de-cologne note.
Finish:
Dry and ashy. Medium in length and with burnt oak and bitter grapefruit. It's not unpleasant but it's certainly challenging. That eau-de-cologne note is there again. Fascinating.
Thoughts:
Not nearly as approachable as the Yamazaki. This is a thinker and yet not especially complex. However, I like a challenge and I'm definitely going to spend more time with this one.
Grade: B
Final Thoughts:
Going on grade alone, you'd think these whiskies were on a par, but they're really not. The Yamazaki is a step up from the Hakushu in almost every way and earns itself a solid B, while the latter just scrapes in at the bottom end. Both are still fantastic value, well worth a punt and, at a shade under £40 each, you'd be doing yourself a disservice by not getting both. However, if you can only get one, I'd go for the Yamazaki every time.
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